Length: 14km (8.7 miles) to Exceat or 20km (12.4 miles) to Seaford
9.24 train from Victoria (9.31 Clapham Junction, 9.40 East Croydon) to Lewes, changing there (arrive 10.26, depart 10.47) for the train to Berwick, arriving 10.56
Buy a day return to Berwick, which should be accepted for the return from Seaford: if not, you only have to pay extra for the Seaford to Lewes stretch.
While those on the Scottish trip climb their Munroes, we will ascend the heights of Windover Hill and High and Over Hill on this classic South Downs walk, though actually the only big climb is High & Over in the afternoon, the walk passing quite gently across the flank of Windover Hill (though still with fine views).
In the past I have always recommended lunch at the Giant’s Rest pub in Wilmington 2.8 miles into the walk, but very sadly this fell victim to the pandemic in 2021. So the only choice now is to push on to Alfriston, 5.8 miles into the walk, which has both pubs and tea rooms, the usual favourite being the George Inn with its lovely garden, which serves food all afternoon as far as I am aware.
After lunch it is 2.9 miles more to Exceat, where you can have refreshments at the Cuckmere Inn, and end the walk if you wish (the 8.7 mile version) by getting very regular (every 10-15 minutes) number 12 buses into Seaford. However the walk down to Cuckmere Haven and over Seaford Head is highly recommended - one of the most beautiful 3.7 miles walk in the kingdom (including lovely pink thrift flowers on the cliff top at this time of year).
Seaford has pubs and the Trawlers fish and chip shop - the best in the south east! - but for tea, if you get there in time, your poster’s pick is the tea kiosk just before the Martello Tower, which has tables on the beach and which is popular with locals. T'aint posh but the view is great.
Trains back are at 25 and 53 past, changing at Lewes.T=swc.90
3 comments:
You'll be sharing the train (and possibly part of the walk) with CLOG Don't get muddled! 🙂
13 on this walk, but we soon picked up a solo walker who happened to be doing the same route, which made a very creditable n=14. It was w=a-perfect-sunny-day and if I modestly say so myself (having both posted and created it) this was the perfect walk for it.
Our Scottish-sojourning friends will be pleased to know they had a huge influence on the walk. Firstly, for the first time in four weeks it was conducted at a pace modest enough not to leave me behind in the first half hour. Secondly, when faced with the first hill climb of the day, Windover Hill, the whole group to a man (or woman) unhesitatingly picked the steeper, higher option, inspired doubtless by all that walk post talk of Munroe-bagging. Five of the group even rushed on when we got to the top of the ridge to scale further heights (…until they realised they had gone the wrong way).
The rest of the group - prepare to be amazed!!! - actually SAT on the ground to enjoy the tremendous view and eat snacks, a thing I have not experienced on an SWC walk for many a year. Some of us even did this AGAIN on High & Over Hill!! Revolutions have been started by less….
We got to Alfriston about 1.30 and I expected the pub’s lovely garden to be bursting (maybe even CLOGged with rival walking groups). But actually it was empty and everyone was sat inside. We soon put that to rights, bagging three tables in different places and exasperating the serving staff who seemed to think we would all be on the same one. The food was very nice: I was happy anyway and others seemed to be.
We left a few people behind in the pub: what happened to them? I thought they would overhaul us at tea, or when we sat on High & Over Hill, but I never saw them again. Otherwise group cohesion was good until just after the summit of High & Over when most people decided to go down the hill by the obvious route rather than the specified one. Two didn’t go up the hill at all but carried on along the river to Exceat.
Still, I expected to find a big happy group having tea at the Cuckmere Inn, but in fact found only the two river walkers. They were getting the bus from there and I learned another had done likewise so as to be back home in time to watch Eurovision…. Did the rest carry on to Seaford? I did anyway, and had a gorgeous walk. To my surprise the riverside path to Cuckmere Haven was practically deserted - just me and an egret, daintily stepping through the mud (the egret was doing this, not me). Seaford Head was less deserted, but for a while on the walk over it all around me was still, warm and golden, like being in a dream.
Coming down into Seaford it felt like high summer and I wondered if I had been right not to bring my swimming stuff. One other walker, who had swum on last Sunday’s Goring walk, had earlier expressed an interest in having a dip. Did she do so? I knew that had I done so the water would have been gelid so had only the briefest regrets. (In two weeks time, however….)
Instead I consoled myself with the kittiwakes (they are back nesting on the cliffs), thrift (full out on the cliff edge but looking a bit drought-stricken in places), and some swifts flying high over the town. Then fish and chips from Trawlers, a half from Steamworks, and the 7.53 train.
Two who caught the bus to Seaford got Fish & Chips from Trawlers and ate on the beach, not been attacked by seagulls for a change. They missed 6:25pm train, but had to wait for another hour as 6:53pm was cancelled. Whilst waiting, met one walker who was 'left behind' at the pub, then at Lewes saw three more walkers who walked to Seaford. One swam in the sea but said was very cold indeed. They were a party of 5 but two went to catch 6:25pm train. So 6 on 7:25pm train back to London. We can second Walker's sentiment - a very nice walk in perfect weather.
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