Backup Only

This Week's Walks - Archive

Please see the Saturday Walker's Club This Week's Walks page.

This is an archive of walks done by the Saturday Walker's Club. You should only need to use this page if the SWC website is down.

Wednesday, 30 August 2023

Cumbria Trip (Eden Valley and Hadrian’s Wall) – up to 6 nights with 6 walks: 30/08/23 (Arrival Day) to 05/09/23

Carlisle is the natural base for these walks, as all trains and buses used depart from there. Frequent trains and buses get us to and from the Hadrian Wall walks, while the trains for the Eden Valley Walks are less frequent, but all three walks finish in towns with plentiful tea and dinner options to while away any waiting time. Carlisle goes to sleep relatively early (last food orders are mostly at 21.00 hrs), so after long walks it may be best to dine before going back to Carlisle. 
There are many Roman Museums and ticketed Roman Forts to visit on any off-days you may want to take, in Carlisle or Corbridge they are in walkable distance from the stations, and several others are located between Haltwhistle and Hexham, and those are all linked by Bus Line AD122 shuttling between the train stations.  
 
Note: as always with these long-range postings - trackworks on the train lines (mostly happening over the weekends) can throw the whole thing into turmoil, and this schedule would then have to change

 

Draft Walk Schedule
It starts with the least exciting (but scenic) of the three Hadrian’s Wall Walks, followed by the furthest and remotest of the three Eden Valley walks, then the three core walks that cannot really be missed (in my opinion). The High Cup Nick walk has to be on the Sunday, as it’s the only day the MoD Range is open and the Extended Version is doable. The toughest walk sits at the end, so punters can cut it out easily.
The Hadrian’s Wall walks will take longer than you would think going just by length and ascent data, as there is lots to look at, read and take in.
 
Note: the walk files are nearly ready to go on the website, but not quite. It will be late June/early July before that happens.
 
 

31/08/23 (Thu) – Hexham to Corbridge (via Hadrian’s Wall) [both Carlisle – Newcastle Railway]

21.6 km/13.4 mi, 356/358m, 5/10. Picnic lunch but Errington Coffee House en route, lots of choice in Corbridge. No shortcuts other than rare buses up to Acomb or down from Errington Coffee House.

Ascent via Acomb and Fallowfield to Planetrees. Turn east along the stretch with the fewest Roman era remains (of the three walked on this trip). Sights: very good and long piece of wall, showing evidence of the change from Broad Wall to Narrow Wall; route passes wooden cross and St. Oswald’s Church near Heaven Field, site of a 7th century battle (Christian Northumbria vs Pagan Welsh); good evidence of the Vallum, Wall mostly buried under the B6318 though; some wall platforms at milecastle 24; Halton Chesters/Hunnum Fort just grassy mounds. But some fine scenery. Descent via historic Halton Castle and Aydon Castle to picturesque Corbridge.

SWC 413 f: https://www.walkingclub.org.uk/walk/hadrians-wall-path-core-section/

 

01/09/23 (Fri) – Wild Boar Fell (Garsdale to Kirkby Stephen) [both Settle – Carlisle Railway]

23.3 km/14.5 mi), 676/756m, 8/10. Picnic lunch. No shortcuts.

Gentle Ridge with splendid views above the remote Mallerstang Common valley, then walk down into the Upper Eden Valley and to Pendragon Castle. Follow riverside paths and pastures to Kirkby Stephen.

SWC 417: https://www.walkingclub.org.uk/walk/wild-boar-fell/

 

02/09/23 (Sat) – Brampton to Greenhead or Haltwhistle (via Hadrian’s Wall) [Bus Carlisle – Brampton, return via bus from Greenhead or Carlisle – Newcastle Railway from Haltwhistle]

19.3 km/12.0 mi or 29.0 km/18.0 mi, 303/286m or 466/478m, 4/10 or 7/10. Cafés at Lanercost Priory and at Birdoswald, pubs and cafés in Gilsland and Greenhead, café in Walltown Country Park, lots of choice in Haltwhistle. Shortcuts via bus lines 685 (in Greenhead) or AD122.

Ascent via Brampton Ridge, Quarry Beck Wood and Lanercost Priory. Turn east along 2nd best stretch of the HWP. Pastures with some woods, mildly undulating apart from the steep crossings of the Banks Burn and the River Irthing. Sights: fine traces of the Vallum and the turf wall, some signal towers and turret bases, the highest surviving piece of wall (only short and partly rebuilt though), Birdoswald/Banna Fort (ticketed, but can be seen from the path), Willowford Bridge = the stranded bridge (the river has changed course), some fine bits of wall, then Milecastle 48 at Gilsland, the best-preserved of all. East of Greenhead: Thirlwall Castle ruin (built from Wall stone), Walltown Crags and Great Chesters Fort (earth works and wall remnants) to Haltwhistle Burn. Descent along Haltwhistle Burn through a magnificent wooded gorge into the ‘Centre of Britain’ (Haltwhistle’s marketing pitch).

SWC 413 a or b: https://www.walkingclub.org.uk/walk/hadrians-wall-path-core-section/

 

03/09/23 (Sun) – High Cup Nick (Appleby-in-Westmoreland Circular) [both Settle – Carlisle Railway]

23.9 km/14.8 mi, 748m, 8/10. Picnic lunch (with THAT view). Minor shortcuts possible for a 7/10 walk. Massive shortcuts possible, but need car shuttle or taxis. Tough variation possible through MoD Warcop Range and down Scordale for a 10/10 walk.

One of the finest natural features in Northern England, without difficult route finding or pathless terrain.

SWC 415: https://www.walkingclub.org.uk/walk/high-cup-nick/

 

04/09/23 (Mon) – Bardon Mill to Haltwhistle (via Hadrian’s Wall) [both Carlisle – Newcastle Railway]

18.3 km/11.4 mi, 438/411m, 5/10. Plenty of refreshment options of all kinds on the route or just off it, lots of choice in Haltwhistle. Shortcuts via bus line AD122.

Ascent via Thorngrafton Common or Vindolanda Fort (ticketed) to Housesteads Fort. Turn west along the best stretch of HWP. Description (in reverse, ie west to east): steady ascent to the highest point on the HWP, at Winshield Crags, followed by undulating route along a steady line of crags, with dramatic views north across commons and moors, as well as to the south across pastures. Sights: the famous ‘Sycamore Gap’ with the ‘Robin Hood Tree’, Crag Lough, Housesteads/Vercovicium Fort (interior ticketed but can be walked around). High presence of Roman structures due to the remoteness of the area and its inaccessibility for the ‘recycling’ of rocks in farms, roads, ecclesiastical and private buildings. Descent along Haltwhistle Burn through a magnificent wooded gorge into the ‘Centre of Britain’ (Haltwhistle’s marketing pitch).

SWC 413 c (in reverse): https://www.walkingclub.org.uk/walk/hadrians-wall-path-core-section/

 

05/09/23 (Tue) – Cross Fell and Great Dun Fell (Langwathby to Appleby-in-Westmoreland) [both Settle – Carlisle Railway]

33.0 km/20.5 mi, 1048/999m, 10/10. Picnic lunch. Massive shortcuts possible, but need car shuttle or taxis from/to train stations. Minor shortcut and minor extension off the ridge described.

The highest English mountains outside the Lake District. Navigation relatively straight forward, even in bad weather (the tops are often in clouds).

SWC 414: https://www.walkingclub.org.uk/walk/cross-fell-and-great-dun-fell/

23 comments:

Gavin said...

Surprised no comments. Looking forward to some gr8 walks. Kirkby Stephen is a favourite place (in the coast to coast path). Staying in the Roadhouse hotel.

EBB said...

btw Avanti West Coast's website says:

"Busy trains expected:
Network Rail are carrying out engineering work in the Northampton area from Saturday 2 to Sunday 10 September. As a result, we're running a slightly reduced timetable across Avanti West Coast routes and our trains may be busier than usual. Please plan ahead, reserve a seat and check before you travel."

(I'm planning to come on a couple of walks, prob Sat 2nd and Mon 4th. Looking forward to it -- Eileen)

Judith said...

Thanks for the tip about the trains, I've just booked mine. I'm staying at the Abbey Guest House, another SWC walker was booked there but has had to cancel and rooms appear to be still available.

Thomas G said...

walks now posted (assuming trains will run as currently listed in journey planner)

Kunal said...

Hi all, three of us have booked a house in Carlisle. There's a spare bedroom if anyone needs accommodation - works out just over £40 a night. Let me know if of interest

Thomas G said...

Strike Update 18/08
ASLEF have - as feared - announced industrial action aligned to the RMT strike, ie: strike on the 1st of Sep, and overtime ban on the 2nd.
I'll think about it over the weekend, but my initial reaction is to just swap the Thursday and Friday walks, meaning a very early train on Day 1 to Garsdale, and a bus journey to the walk from Hexham instead of the train. Bus vs train adds 30 mins journey time each way on that walk, which would be an OK price to pay in my mind. That would minimise the changes for the overall programme.
I'll revise the posts accordingly by Sunday EOB latest.

Thomas G said...

...bad news in any case for anyone planning to come up on the Friday...

Thomas G said...

changed my mind: will not alter posts now, but wait for Tuesday next week for the definitive train schedule. base assumption is though that the Thu and Fri postings will be switched and the train to Hexham will be replaced by a bus, leaving a little earlier though.

Thomas G said...

Thursday and Friday walks now swapped after seeing Northern Trains announce there will be no trains on their entire network on Friday.
Earlier bus start on Friday than would have been the case with the train, but same arrival time in Hexham. Bus stops by the Carlisle Premier Inn, where some people are staying...

Thomas G said...

As for sourcing early morning nourishments for picnic only walks: there is the Tesco Victoria Viaduct 3 mins from the station, opening very early (but not early enough on Sunday), a Costa Coffee by the station which is open early enough, but whether they have fresh sandwiches stocked for an 8.24 train? Same goes for the WH Smith in the station.
For the best coffee, try the converted three-wheeled van (think Only Fools and Horses) on the station concourse.

Thomas G said...

Last comment (I hope): there will be a second walk posted for the Tuesday (aka 'Departure Day'): shorter, lower, easier and more weather-proof than the Cold Fell workout. It may only be 'map-led' though, depending on how quickly I can type up the directions...

EBB said...

I'm still planning on coming on the Saturday and Monday walks at least, but am not clear about exactly where we will be meeting up and when.
Where will I find this information plz? (I'll be staying at Haydon Bridge and coming in on early morning bus/train from the other direction...)
I'm happy to put together a WhatsApp group, for example, if that might help, especially in view of train strikes..

EBB said...

(Eileen)

Thomas G said...

Hi Eileen.
We'll be meeting at the start of the walk, as is the procedure for all SWC walks. On the station platform in case of a train journey, or at the bus stop where the walk starts, if it's a bus journey. Train and bus times are mentioned in the walk posts. If you are not familiar with SWC walks, please read the walk posts, follow the links in them to maps, gpx files and written directions and have them with you on the day (the maps and directions, not the links). SWC walks have no leaders, although in practice on these faraway trips, the person that has created the walks will usually be on the walks and obviously will know the route.

Thomas G said...

Very last comment (I hope): second walk now posted for the Tuesday (aka departure day).
Also, my usual reminder for these trips into proper mountains areas: while a weather forecast for - say - Haltwhistle will give you good enough an idea of the conditions for the Hadrian's Wall walks, I'd recommend checking mwis.org.uk for their forecast for the Yorkshire Dales & North Pennines when packing for the Eden Valley walks (updated mid-afternoon every day).

EBB said...

Thanks Thomas, I was just looking for the meeting times and places in this post, and didn't realise they're of course lower down, in the posts for each day of the week. For any last-minute changes (I know there probably won't be any) I can just check here and also posts for each day of the week.

Thomas G said...

I just looked at the multi-day forecasts for Haltwhistle and Kirkby Stephen, and I'm in shock: we might get some dry and part-sunny days!

Thomas G said...

From the West Coast Mainline: Wild Boar Fell, Great Dun Fell and Cross Fell, all cloud free

Gavin said...

What a great week. As the writeup notes, Carlisle is an excellent base for walking. Very good transport especially on the Hadrians Wall route to Newcastle and good enough to the Howgill Fells and Westmoreland on the beautiful Settle line. Not sure what the exact numbers were so I'leave that to someone else, about 15 or so.8
Lucky with the weather, and views. The places we ended walks were often beautiful towns and villages,where we often ate afterwards.
Carlisle has loads of places to eat and drink. And a fascinating history. The museums seemed a bit scarce, I thought

Most of the beers were local, very few national.

My hotel, The County was very good indeed.

Thomas G said...

N=15 indeed, all seemingly enjoying Cumbrian and Northumberland hospitality. We were lucky with the weather, of course, but apart from that, group cohesion during the day and togetherness in the evening were very good indeed anyway. The restaurants and pubs we chose were all delightful, with the Mansion House Inn in Haltwhistle and the Kings Head in Carlisle standing out from the rest.
Lots of wonderful beers, and cheap at that!
Transport worked well, and we negotiated the strike successfully.
On days off, people made good use of the museums and Roman sites.
All good from my side.
Oh: no injuries...

Karan said...

The Milecastle Inn outside of Haltwhistle also stands out. Thanks to all whom came. Good cohesion throughout the trip. Karan

Graham said...

A big thank you to Thomas for putting on this trip to Cumbria. We thoroughly enjoyed the two days of walking significant stretches of Hadrian’s Wall, covering the sections Hexham to Corbridge and Brampton to Greenhead. The wonderful countryside, the superb views and the ever present sense of history made this a very special weekend. It goes without saying that no trip away with the SWC would be the same without the excellent company of fellow walkers and familiar faces. There was plenty of opportunity for enjoying the generous Cumbrian hospitality with special mention to Pele Tower and the Black Bull in Corbridge for being great places to hang out after a days’ walking. The Cathedral and grounds in Carlisle are superb. The Kings Head in Fisher Street, Carlisle took the award for the best pub in that city. Wished we could have stayed for more of the walks.

E said...

Agree...!

Awesome walks, thank you Thomas. I appreciate all of the work that went into the trip.

Re Carlisle museums: Tullie is worth a mention, especially its Roman Frontier Gallery (on the site of the former fort). The Cumbrian costume collection was good too (!). It's tucked away along a cobbled street behind the cathedral. I visited after finding the castle had to be closed.