Length: 28.3 km (17.6 mi), with plenty options to
shorten – and one to lengthen
Ascent/Descent: 694m
Net Walking Time: 6 ¾ hours
Toughness: 8 out of 10
Take
the 09.30 Gloucester train from Weymouth (calls Upwey 09.35, Dorchester West 09.44), arrives
Maiden Newton at 09.55.
Return trains: 15.56, 17.56,
19.12, 20.15, 22.44.
This is a route entirely in the Dorset Area of
Outstanding Natural Beauty, leading through three roughly parallel valleys cut
into the dip slope of the chalk hills of the Dorset Downs, the most westerly
part of the large chalk formation running through southern England, and a
couple of steep combes within those valleys. Consequently, there are six
ascents spread out through the walk, but the views from the steep slopes of the
dry hanging valleys (including two of the three parts of Hog Cliff NNR), the
rounded hills and broad ridges are just rewards for the effort. Four chalk
streams and rivers are crossed and plenty of picturesque villages, hamlets and
historic churches passed. The author Thomas Hardy based many of his locales on
this area.
Cerne Abbas is the jewel in the crown amongst the villages, with almost every building being historic, special and beautiful. It also has some sizeable remains of the 10th century Cerne Abbey, a holy well, an imposing tithe barn, three pubs, a tea room and a tap room as well as Britain’s largest hill figure, The Cerne Giant. This is likely of early Anglo-Saxon origin and depicting a pagan god, stark naked.
Note: The chalk figure is fenced off at a wide margin to prevent erosion and views of The Cerne Giant are only possible during the approach to the village, but not once in the village!
Walk
Options:
A
Shortcut
right at the start cuts the initial loop through Maiden Newton and down the
Frome Valley. Cut 2.6 km and 24m ascent.
Another Shortcut early on cuts the scenic coombes of the Hog Cliff
National Nature Reserve, and reverse-walks part of the finish of the walk to
Sydling St. Nicolas. Cut 1.5 km and 82m ascent.
Taking both Shortcuts
reduces the rating to 7/10.
An Extension in Cerne Abbas onto Giant Hill leads to a couple of fine
viewpoints up and down the Cerne Valley and through the many pre-historic earth
works on Giant Hill. Note: you get no views of any part of The Giant
from this extension, but will add 2.0 km and 100m ascent!
An Alternative Ending in Dorchester follows the Cerne Valley downstream
with only two modest climbs (resulting in fine views) and routes through the
historic centre of Dorchester to link directly to the more frequent and direct
train line back to Weymouth. Cut 140m ascent but add 1.3 km distance.
Bus line 5 [was X11] (Yeovil – Sherborne – Dorchester, with 8 buses per day
Mon-Fri only) links Cerne Abbas and the villages in the Cerne Valley south of
Cerne Abbas to train stations in Dorchester (on the Weymounth – Waterloo line)
and Sherborne (on the Exeter St. David’s – Waterloo line). See the route map
for the location of relevant bus stops. Afternoon departures from Cerne Abbas,
New Inn to Dorchester are at 14.10, 16.15, and 18.25.
Lunch: Located
within 80m (!) of each other, after 14.9 km/9.3 mi of the walk in Cerne Abbas:
The Royal Oak, The Giant Inn (aka The Red Lion), The New Inn, Abbots Tearoom.
The Royal Oak, The Giant Inn (aka The Red Lion), The New Inn, Abbots Tearoom.
Tea:
The
Cerne Abbas Brewery, The
Greyhound Inn in Sydling St. Nicholas (approximately one hour of walking from the end),
The Chalk and Cheese in Maiden Newton (450m beyond the
station in the village centre).
1 comment:
Not a day for sun lotion... But at least we had an inland walk, away from any beaches!
6 assembled on the platform at Dorchester West, when a 7th walked up. She had taken the very early train from London to join us for the day (and do the same again tomorrow). Respect!
An 8th walker was on the train from Weymouth. We started down the Frome Valley from Maiden Newton and the weather was as it stayed for the day: a steady conveyor belt of grey clouds, some of which were dry, others produced some spittle, others still some drizzle. The sun was never seen. Up out of the Frome Valley onto the first wind swept ridge, a hare was spotted darting across a field of stubble (on 1st impression we had taken it for a fat rat), an overgrown field boundary was negotiated gingerly. Down into the very scenic Hog Cliff NNR, where The SWC butterfly spotter no 2 was coming down the other way. He had driven up in the morning and parked at Sydling to walk back the route to meet us (and to look for Marsh Fritillaries, none found). On as a group of 9, down into Sydling and back up the other side.
Steady text contact had been made with another group of 3 London starters who had connected with the 10.30 bus at Dorchester up the Cerne Valley, alighted at Godmanstone and made their way onto the walk route. They also included 3 Weymouth stayers. They bumped into walker n=16 up on the ridge. She had also driven up in the morning to Sydling and parked her car there.
All united in Cerne Abbas at The New Inn.
The group then seriously disintegrated, with only 6 walking on to Sydling and taking the two cars back to Dorchester and Weymouth, all else taking the bus from either Cerne or further down the route from Godmanstone.
Lovely vistas, scenic Downs, one herd of too inquisitive cows with calves, a fallow deer galloping through a wheat field, a hare, a very lovely lunch pub, THAT chalk figure, and no complaints about the weather.
W=almost-autumnal-with-spittle-and-drizzle
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